Kreuztalsteinbruch - August 2008

The Kreuztalsteinbruch is located near Neuwerk (Rübeland). Climbing takes place on not always solid porphyr stone. The routes on the side of the road are up to 20 meters and in the quarry itself up to 30 meters long. The style of climbing is quite unusual and a good foot technique is often more useful then a lot of strength. For the usually rather granite-dominated Harz climbing, the Kreuztalsteinbruch is a welcome change.

On the 30th of August I could do a first ascent of a route which was bolted by Jörg S. from Wernigerode but not yet climbed in redpoint-style. He allowed me to try his project and the project slings were still in the first two bolts indicating that nobody climbed the route in between. There were also no entries in the summit book about a possible first ascent.

I could do the route in the second attempt in redpoint style. Some of the holds broke during the first attempt including one important hold in the crux section which made it only slightly heavier.

The lower part of the route may not always be solid, although I have removed most of the really loose holds. So try to load the holds carefully and a helmet is at least for the belayer recommended ( like in all routes in the Kreuztalsteinbruch). Nevertheless the protection is always perfect.

The difficulty is probably somewhere around VIIIa-c (saxony grade system which corresponds to 7-7+ UIAA). If the thin flake at crux should break it is probably a lot harder. Even though I was quite sure that it would break at the first touch, it was actually quite solid.

The exit to belay is somewhat strange and uncomfortable because you have to fight your way through a lot of vegetation and rock which looks like it would instantly crumble to dust. There are two more bolts hidden but it may be an option to traverse to the route “Lungenentzündung“.

Thanks to Jörg S. and who else bolted this and the other routes.

Routenname: Wicked
Difficulty: VIIIb (Saxony scale)
Topo: Kreuztalsteinbruch (Kreuztalwächter)
David Lamm, 30.08.08


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